At first blush, Belcourt looks like every other East Village bistro (think frisee salad, hanger steak with roasted marrow) but chef Matt Hamilton not only cut his teeth at Prune, he spent two years harvesting olives in Italy — and he's as much a regular at the Union Square Greenmarket as seasonal guru Peter Hoffman. Right now that means doing creative things with ramps, but the first local harvest will come soon enough. We say it's officially spring when Belcourt's doors to the street are left open and chilled pea and mint soup is on the menu.

Belcourt, 84 E. 4th Street, New York City; 212-979-0234.